Thank you for taking part in one of my workshops! Here is where you will find all the information you need to create your own Bokashi + rozome silk art at home.
Pick a silk that has enough structure to hold up to being stretched in an embroidery hoop. Lighter weight pongee/habotai tend to be easily damaged, the higher the momme (MM) the better for these. Crepe tends to be the best for beginners as the dye has less tendency to bleed through the over twisted threads.
Prepare the silk by washing it
Pick a silk that has enough structure to hold up to being stretched in an embroidery hoop. Lighter weight pongee/habotai tend to be easily damaged, the higher the momme (MM) the better for these. Crepe tends to be the best for beginners as the dye has less tendency to bleed through the over twisted threads.
Prepare the silk by washing it with a gentle detergent and stretch it taught into a clean embroidery hoop while it is still damp.
I have found that any dyes that can be used for Serti silk painting can be used for Bokashi just make sure you aren't buying silk "paint" intending to use it for blending. Silk paints can be used to add fine details.
Surikomi and Irosashi brushes are essential tools for blending dyes!
A good quality Rofude brush is worth investing in as t
I have found that any dyes that can be used for Serti silk painting can be used for Bokashi just make sure you aren't buying silk "paint" intending to use it for blending. Silk paints can be used to add fine details.
Surikomi and Irosashi brushes are essential tools for blending dyes!
A good quality Rofude brush is worth investing in as the glue used in regular brush will not withstand the heat of a wax pot.
Wax is a blend of beeswax and paraffin wax.
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This technique works best when the subject can be represented through layers and gradients. Consider the medium when you start your sketch.
Once your sketch is complete, map out the layers and order them from closest to farthest. Be strategic when you are numbering the layers, as long as the layers aren't touching they can be completed at the same time (you may have multiple layers labeled the same number).
Trace your image onto the stretched silk with a non permanent marking tool. My favourite tool is the "frixion" pens. The ink is water resistant and becomes invisible with heat. The ink will disappear as you apply the hot wax and any remaining ink will disappear during steaming.
Thoroughly mist the silk with water and dab off the excess water, the silk should be evenly damp. For larger works you may enjoy wetting the silk with a traditional Hikizome brush.
Add a very small amount of dye to your brush and dab off the excess. Start scrubbing the colour into the layer that is meant to appear closest to the viewer. Scrub in small circular motions until the dye is blended. Repeat this step until the desired colours are achieved on this layer.
Allow the silk to dry completely, test it with the back of your hand. Dry silk will not feel cold to the touch, if it feels cool, allow it more time to dry.
Hot wax is used as a resist to save each layer as you add the dye. Using a rofude brush (calligraphy style brush made to hold hot wax) wax out the layer that you dyed. The wax cools quickly once painted but the brush will keep it hot for some time. Work slowly to allow the wax to completely penetrate the silk.
Re-wet the silk and start these steps again until you have no layers left in your image.
Use a hot iron to remove the excess wax. Sandwich some craft paper or news print around your silk and use the iron to melt the wax. The paper will absorb the excess.
Roll the silk up with 2 layers of craft paper. make sure it is tight and that there are no wrinkles in the silk when you roll it (steaming will set the wrinkles permanently!).
The bundle must then be placed in the steamer for 45-60 minutes (or according to individual directions for the dyes used).
This is optional. You may find that the small amount of wax residue left on the silk after steaming is bothersome. You my try steaming again with fresh paper and find this removes enough wax. To remove the wax completely the silk must be dry cleaned. "PERC" is the most effective at removing the wax and preserving the dyes, it is rare to f
This is optional. You may find that the small amount of wax residue left on the silk after steaming is bothersome. You my try steaming again with fresh paper and find this removes enough wax. To remove the wax completely the silk must be dry cleaned. "PERC" is the most effective at removing the wax and preserving the dyes, it is rare to find a dry cleaner that still uses this. Most use one of many more environmentally friendly chemicals. "GenX" solution will fade the dyes a bit but will completely remove the excess wax. Ask your dry cleaner what chemical they use so your results will be more predictable!
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